Knock Down Kilsol Multi-insect Killer
The label says it will kill the Japanese Beetle. I applied the Bayer Advanced All-In-One on May 12, when I planted the knock outs. The container is not specific as to how much to put in per gallon of water.
( Unless I'm living in a fog, or can't read, and totally missed it every time I've read the container. I even went to the web site.) I put one full capful in a two gallon watering can and watered the roots of my ginger lilies(about a 10 foot row), a chindo virburnum, and these two knock out roses. The label says it will feed 16 roses. Did I stretch it too far? I was considering hunting down the pellet Bayer Advanced All-In-One for my Crepe Myrtles.
Has anyone used this product successfully? The dilution directions are on the label that they have on their website so I presume they're on the bottle as well (legally I believe they're required to be there).
Some products that have lots of instructions & precautions will have those fold out labels where you have to peel part of it back and then a bunch more pages will fold out-maybe that's why you missed it on yours? It says for roses that 4 tbsp in a quart of water will treat one plant, or for flowerbeds 4 tbsp in 2 gallons will treat 12 sq ft of garden bed. Every year I have same problem. They seem to love my roses, basil, grape vines and pretty much anything thing that is fragrant.
I heard that there is a chemical treatment that you apply in early spring that will turn the leaves bitter which will keep these @.$)!)$.!)!)@))#.$($&%#&Y.# away. Since I am against chemicals in my garden I am going to try neem oil and praying mantes this year. As for getting them while they are still at their grub stage does it really cut them down? Wouldn't they just fly over from your neighbor’s yard? I applied milky spore and beneficial nematodes this year but mostly to make sure they don't destroy my lawn or plants. Anyone else had success with getting these ^^%.&.^%$#@#$&$.#(@ off their garden?
They do run in cycles.Milky spore takes a couple years for complete control but you can use beneficial nematodes(they die off in the winter) for the summer to get the grubs.We had a problem in the NE last year.here's all the info I collectedInfo on neemJB infoJapanese beetles can feed on about 300 species of plants, ranging from roses to poison ivy. Odor and location in direct sun seem to be very important factors in plant selection. The beetles usually feed in groups, starting at the top of a plant and working downward. While a single beetle doesn't eat much; group feeding by many causes severe damage. Adults feed on the upper surface of foliage, chewing out tissue between the veins. This gives the leaf a characteristic skeletonized appearance.Japanese beetles can fly as far as 5 miles but 1 to 2 miles is more likely. Usually, they make only short flights as they move about to feed.
Local infestations spread as beetles move to favored food and egg-laying sites.Insecticides for Japanese Beetle ControlMany insecticides are labeled for Japanese beetle control on landscape plants. Examples include acephate (Orthene Turf, Tree & Ornamental Insecticide), carbaryl (Sevin and many other brand names), cyfluthrin (Bayer Advanced Garden Multi-Insect Killer Concentrate), lambda-cyhalothrin (Spectracide® Triazicide® Soil & Turf Insect Killer Concentrate), esfenvalerate (Ortho Bug-B-Gon Garden & Landscape Insect Killer Concentrate), and permethrin (Spectracide® Bug Stop Multi-Purpose Insect Control Concentrate and many other brands). Neem extracts (Bon-Neem) deter Japanese beetle feeding but may not be adequate against high populations.Direct spray applications of insecticidal soap kills Japanese beetles on contact but does not provide any residual protection.Here are some points to keep in mind when using insecticides for beetle control -Japanese beetle flight is greatest on clear days with temperatures between 84o and 95o F and winds less than 12 miles per hour. This can bring new beetles into your landscape to challenge any control program that you may have.
When these conditions exist, check plants frequently to see if beetles are starting to feed again.A few beetles on plants, or some moderate damage, will bring in more. Japanese beetles apparently produce aggregation pheromones that will attract more males and females to feed and find potential mates. In addition, volatile odors from damaged plants may attract more beetles.
These conditions also can keep beetle numbers high. Keeping numbers and damage low can mean fewer new arrivals.Japanese beetles begin to feed at the tops of plants and move down as defoliation occurs. This makes damage obvious, in terms of brown leaves and esthetic damage, but also can pose coverage problems on large trees. Hose end sprayers may allow applications to reach the target but spray drift and applicator exposure are potential problems.
Folks what I did when I had the problem was to put traps up but put them in areas that are over grown. Areas like neighborhood common grounds ie. Flood plains. Pasture fields near the home,power line easements etc. Property far enough away to lure the beetles from your property but close enough to be effective.
I would hang one bag with the bottom cut out then put a five gallon bucket (with lid on loosely) cut a hole in bucket lid for bag bottom to fit into. Hang trap with bottom of bag in bucket. Empty bucket into a trash bag every couple days.
By the way this makes a great gift for the guy down the block, you know the one that speeds in and out of the neighborhood every day with his radio so loud it rattles the windows in your house.Just what I did and now I am lucky to see a half dozen a year. Give them a squish manually. I used the Japanese Beetle bags and didn't really have a problem with them. I already had a 'million' beetles anyway.
The bag trapped quite a few of them and prevented them from destroying the leaves on all my plants without having to use chemical pesticides that would kill/harm bees, other beneficial insects, and my hummingbirds. I could be wrong about this, but my understanding was the bags attracted the male beetles to help slow the reproductive cycle.
I've seen two beetles this year and don't recall seeing any grubs as I was planting. I used chemicals in the past (without the bag), but they still came back year after year. They were attacted to my yard prior to using the bags. I don't want to get rid of the plants that attract them, so the bags were a good solution for me. I recently stumbled across a website that is all about getting rid of pesty things naturally, as I am.
I have Japanese Beetles that are eating the heck out of my roses. I had so many in bloom last year. This year as soon as one starts to bud the JB is on it. The leaves look terrible, etc.
I have always heard of the soup method to rid JB and usually a couple doses of that would rid them. This year, I guess I have to many, or to much rain. Indiana as not been lacking for rain this year for sure.The mixture is: 1 1/2 gal.
Warm water, 3 tsp. Garlic powder, 2 tsp. Cayenne pepper, 2 squirts dish soap, a little under a 1/4 cup of vegetable oil, shake, spray plant. They don't like the smell, if they eat the leaf, it is hot, and the oil and soap stick to the plant. It doesn’t smell too good, but it worked. It is all natural (if you use natural soap).By the way, rabbits do not like the cayenne pepper either.
I have also heard they do not like hair from a house pet (like a dog). I have brushed my chow and taken her hair and placed it out around my vegetable garden to ward off the rabbits. I don't know if it worked, but I didn't have them eating on my veggies, and I had no fences. And at that time I didn't know about the cayenne pepper either.By the way here is the link to the website I stumbled across dkmommyspot.comBest of gardening to all. Mighty scott, good luck on getting rid of these pests, I lost my garden,fruit trees,and grape vines to these varmits a couple of years ago. I tried everything. I read that milky spore is good but to treat even an acre is costly.
Once the slugs get into the ground it will take a couple of years for them to work their cycle and be gone which I have found out that has come true. I feel for you as I never have felt so helpless in getting rid of a problem.
Good news is the trees are starting to come back to life and the grape vine looked great this year. Don't try to garden while this is going on they will eat it all.
Knock Down Kilsol Multi-insect Killer Full
I live across the street from a 'natural' park, i.e.mowed but no chemicals used, with a large lake on the other side. Earlier this summer I saw a small tree in the park that looked alive with JB's. I figured it was a matter of hours before they 'jumped the road.' Bayer did little for the investation that arrived, however carefully placed traps, emptied frequently, have been A.
With the happy wild uncontrolled population across the street, I may still try to control gubs,however I'm a bit sceptical about how much assistance this will provide.I placed the traps very, very far away from my roses, and hollyhocks-more of less at the apex of a triangle, with the closest bed 30 ft away, farthest around 50, near the road. I can occasionally smell the bait from my patio, and the traps do seem to divert them before they reach my beds. My rose bed is acually on the other side of the garage about 60+ feet away, but the traps appear to interrupt their travel schedule.The directions said specifically to place the traps upwind from the area you wish protected. I think this is key, and I tried various locations to intercept their flight patterns.Good luck! Other than the disgusting task of emplying the bags-sometimes full and hanging to the ground in 2 DAYS, I can't believe the drop in population immediately after placing the traps around 6 weeks ago. I rarely see any beetles now though the park continues to have a healthypopulation.
Quick Navigation.Nobody likes mosquitos. Not only are they carriers of disease, but they’re little bloodsucking pests that leave behind itchy bumps that drive you nuts. But what’s the best mosquito killer, and how do you get rid of these irritating, flying menaces?Let’s discuss all the many options of environmental mosquito killers today. We’ll talk about different types, how to use them, and how to make them the most effective. I’ll go over preparing your yard in advance, too.Getting rid of these bitey bugs is possible. $21.04These are my first option to pick up once I’ve mosquito-proofed the yard to the best of my ability. For any areas of standing water, these dunks are essential!
The dunk releases a natural bacteria that kills off larvae and prevents mosquitos from breeding. If there’s any standing water in the yard, a dunk (or a broken piece of one) goes into it right away. Looking for a pet safe mosquito killer? This is it!I can’t even express just how beneficial these have been for reducing my mosquito population. So before you invest in another more expensive option, start with some of these dunks.
You’ll be glad you did.Best Mosquito Killer Larvicide For GrassSummit Responsible Solutions Mosquito Bits. From $14.16If you have a space which doesn’t get lots of standing water normally, but where water can back up, this is your best larvicidal option. This granular version of the mosquito dunk can be spread across lawns and through garden beds to help control any larvae which might occur in those oddball areas where a whole or broken dunk just won’t work.Like the full-sized dunk, these granules are full of a bacteria that kills mosquito larvae quickly. They are pet-safe mosquito killers, and safe around humans too!Best Mosquito Killer Bug ZapperFlowtron BK-15D Electronic Insect Killer, 1/2 Acre Coverage. From $109.50Using a mix of UV light, small amounts of CO2 generated by the device, and a fan that sucks pests inside, this trap will readily catch mosquitos and other insects within. It doesn’t kill the bugs it catches, but they will die of starvation inside the catch container.While this style of trap is more effective when paired with a more powerful lure (either a pheromone lure or a stronger CO2 generator), for a small mosquito trap, this is one of the best mosquito trap options available.
The mesh is fine enough that it can also easily catch fruit flies or other smaller flying pests along with the mosquitoes. Nothing will get back out until you open the containment unit to empty it.Best Mosquito Trap (Large)Flowtron MT-125 Mosquito PowerTrap. $299.95While not the cheapest option on the market, this FlowTron mosquito trap combines a strong vacuum with LEDs and a variety of attractants.
It’s best used in conjunction with one of the lure attractants, although the model produces CO2 on its own. Like most other traps, it does not kill what it catches, instead storing it in a container for later disposal.This is not a small unit, however. When paired with its propane tank, it can be quite weighty, and it definitely takes up space. It’s best used in a sheltered location away from where you’re likely to spend time, so don’t put this on your patio!Best Mosquito Trap (Indoor)MBOX Mosquito Trap.
$90.00Here’s what I like about this indoor trap: it has no scent, it’s quiet in operation, and the mesh is fine enough to keep caught pests inside the unit.But what I don’t like about this indoor trap is that it does not have a lure module. It claims to produce limited amounts of CO2, but when compared to a human, those limited amounts are not enough to draw a mosquito to the trap over a person.If you pair this with some form of lure added into the unit, the vacuum fan is strong enough to suck bugs straight into it and keep them away from you. If you don’t, this is something which might be best used in multiple rooms in the house, so that it catches mosquitos that might be lying in wait for your return.Best Mosquito Trap (High-End Corded)MegaCatch ULTRA Mosquito Trap. $899.00Why would you ever want to spend a ton of money on a mosquito trap, you ask?Well, the MegaCatch ULTRA will catch a ton of mosquitos. Rated more highly than many of its counterparts on the market, this corded mosquito trap has various attractant modules available, generates a good quantity of CO2, and in fact does a whole lot more to catch mosquitos than all of the traps we’ve discussed so far. But yes, it is expensive. In fact, it does have an ongoing cost associated with it, as you will need to purchase refills of modules for it.However, it really, REALLY catches mosquitos.
It is one of the best mosquito killer machines out there, quite frankly. This is one of those situations where you get what you pay for. So if you’re in an environment where mosquitos are constantly there, and you want a solution to get rid of them, the MegaCatch ULTRA mosquito trap is your best option.Best Mosquito Trap (High-End Battery Operated)GreenStrike Mosquito Preventer. $299.99GreenStrike’s mosquito preventer is an interesting system. This device operates on batteries, and mimics a standing-water location in your yard. As female mosquitos lay their eggs, they also leave behind a pheromone which notifies other mosquitos that there’s a good breeding location, drawing in others.Every couple days, the GreenStrike system flushes its water through a filter, catching all of the eggs before they can hatch. It then recycles the pheromone-laden water and puts it back in place.This option may take a while to reduce the mosquito population in your yard, but it’s a proven solution which can significantly reduce the pest quantities not just in your yard, but in nearby yards as well.
The system runs on eight batteries which are easy to change, and can be set to attract specific mosquito types.Best Mosquito Spray (Neem)Neem Pro EC 32 Ounce. $17.40Blended essential oils make up this organic insecticidal spray, and the diversity of oils helps prevent more than just mosquitos. It does not harm beneficial pollinators, but it does deter a wide variety of garden pests, and even deters larger animals such as deer.However, you will definitely be able to smell this stuff when freshly applied.
Using a blend of essential oils such as thyme, rosemary, peppermint, and cedar, there will be a pungent aroma that lingers in your yard. As long as the scent doesn’t get on your nerves, you will be happily mosquito-free while this lasts!Best Mosquito FoggerBurgess 1443 Propane Insect Fogger.
Knock Down Kilsol Multi-insect Killer Man
$57.73Providing six hours of prevention, the Burgess 1443 mosquito fogger will treat 5000 square feet of space in about ten minutes’ time. Once the fog dissipates, which takes about five minutes, the area’s safe to go back into and use.While this fogger works with a number of different fogger solutions (Cutter, Repel, or Black Flag solutions specifically), some solutions are better than others. Read the label on your chosen solution to decide if this is something which is safe to use around your edible plants or not. Most fogger solutions are not food-safe, so you may need to stay away from your food plots.However, this option definitely gets mosquitos out of your yard, and the effects can’t be denied. Want to get rid of mosquitos for a short-term period?
Use one of these.Best Mosquito Repellent (Lantern)Thermacell Repellent Patio Lantern. From $37.17Another short-term option, but a relatively good one! Thermacell’s repellent lantern provides four hours of protection against mosquitos and other flying insects per cartridge. Using DEET as its primary repellent option, it prevents bugs from getting within a fifteen-foot radius of the lantern.While this is meant for short-term usage, you can purchase refill cartridges to reuse your lantern time and time again. This won’t be a long-term solution, but for short-term repellent, it works quite well.Best Mosquito Repellent (Candle/Torch)TIKI Brand BiteFighter Torch Fuel, 64oz. From $5.98TIKI’s fuel requires some form of torch to use it, whether Tiki-branded or other. However, it really works, and has been a mainstay of mosquito repellent options for years.
The BiteFighter solution is a blend of citronella and cedar oils which keep flying insects at bay.Whether you’re using a homemade torch (mason-jar type or something similar) or a commercial one, this is a great option for an evening of relaxation in the yard. Simply light the torches surrounding your area and you have an instant defense against all manner of bugs who want to feast on you.Best Mosquito Repellent (Other)Punch Mosquito Repellent Sticks, 15″. $24.95Uncommon in the United States, mosquito repellent sticks are quite popular in foreign countries where mosquitos are a constant issue. They’re gradually making their way here. When lit like a normal incense stick, these citronella-lemongrass sticks will keep mosquitoes and other insects at bay for 40-60 minutes’ time.These aren’t as effective outdoors, but where they really come in handy is when used as a form of door guard in conjunction with a screen door or mesh mosquito screen. Simply light one of these just inside the door to your house when you’ll be going in and out, and the mosquitoes will stay outside where they belong.So there you have it – some of the best mosquito killer and mosquito repellent options for your yard and garden.
While there’s still lots of other alternatives we haven’t talked about (including repellents that you carry on you, such as repellent sprays, lotions, and bracelets!), this list should give you a great starting spot for most environmental control options.What’s the most effective way of eliminating mosquitos around your house? Do you have any pests which don’t respond to some of the options I’ve provided?
Let me know in the comments! Mosquitos often live in tall grass or amongst larger plants, hiding in the shade during the hottest parts of the day. Neem oil is perfectly safe around people and animals and is a common organic solution. Similarly, the organic insecticide mentioned in this piece is a mixture of scented plant oils such as clove, thyme, peppermint and others, and it’s perfectly safe as well.Yes, such options are temporary, and that’s a good thing! Organic solutions are not permanent fixes – in fact, not even a trap is, as you have to replace the lure regularly. But it does reduce the number of mosquitos sheltering in gardens (and coming out at dusk and dawn) when used regularly, and that’s why I’ll stand by their use.Similarly, the larvicides that are mentioned in this piece are meant to be put into standing water. They are perfectly safe to humans and animals (in fact, they’re commonly used in livestock watering troughs to keep the pests from laying their eggs there), but they eliminate mosquito larvae.
For anyone who has a water feature or pool in their yard, these are essential ways of reducing the mosquito population.Traps and zappers both have their place as well, and both are effective. We’ve provided a plentiful supply of options so that everyone can find something that will work for their own unique situation, as no two yards are identical!.